Mark
E. Mehaffey
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1. Value
Sketch
With
a no. 5B pencil, do a value sketch that brings together the
desirable elements from the photographic references. I included
the sand pit, the headland, the background trees, the island,
and the deep shadows under the tree canopy in a vertical composition
that echoes the forward movement of the sand pit. I dramatically
raised the hoirizon line to break the picture into two unequal
parts.
Assign
values so that your greatest value contrast lies in and around
the focal point, the island.
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| WHEN
TO MASK Usually
it's easiest to paint around light shapes, but if many details
need to be kept white or if surrounding washes need to flow
uninterrupted through an area, masking fluid is the way
to go. Just be sure the masking fluid is completely dry
before you proceed to paint. |
2.
Draw
and Mask
With
a no. 2 pencil, draw the shapes on you paper. Using an inexpensive
no. 4 round, paint masking fluid over the brightly lit areas:
the sand spit near the island and the very tops of the mangroves.
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3. Do a
Wet-Into-Wet Underpainting
Apply
clean water to the whole sheet with a 1-inch (25mm) flat. Wait
for the shine to disappear, then brush on medium value washes
of Quinacridone Rose, New Gamboge and Cobalt Blue. Let this
underpainting dry.
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4.
Paint the
Sky Shape
The
sky shape is farthest away--everything else is in front of the
sky--so it makes sense to paint the sky shape first. Mix slightly
darker washes of the same colors you used in Step 1. Re-wet
the sky shape and wait for the shine to disappear, then add
the washes of Quinacridone Rose, New Gamboge and Cobalt Blue
from left to right. Let the washes intermingle on the paper
to create neutralized versions of the colors.
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5. Enhance
the Sky, Then Paint Forward in Space
For
more drama and to better match the value plan, re-wet the whole
sky, then just as the shine disappears, drop in stronger mixtures
of Quinacridone Rose and Cobalt Blue with just enough New Gamboge
to slightly neutralize them.
After
the sky, the next closest shapes are the distant mangroves and
the headland that juts in from the left and leads the eye to
the focal area, the main island. Use a dark mixture of Quinacridone
Rose and Cobalt Blue and a no. 6 round to paint these areas.
Refer to your value plan; the distant mangroves should be quite
a bit darker than the sky.
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6. Add
the Foreground Water
Use
a 1-inch (25mm) flat to wet the entire foreground area. Run
clear water right up to the edge of the distant mangrove background.
Then, after allowing time for the shine to disappear, lay in
a wash that is a medium-value mixture of Quinacridone Rose and
Cobalt Blue. Let the warm Quinacridone Rose be dominant in your
mixture around the island. As you move forward in space allow
more of the Cobalt Blue to show. (While it is generally true
that warm colors come forward and cool colors recede, it is
not always necessary to keep warm colors in the foreground and
cool colors in the background. In this case, you should use
the warm colors to emphasize the island, you ca a.) While this
large area is still wet, use a 1-inch (25mm) flat to lift out
the sand spit that starts in the foreground and winds its way
toward the focal point. Also lift out an indication water moving
across the sunlit island, not the foreground.
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Sunlit Mangrove
Watercolor
on 300-lb. (640gsm) Fabriano Artistico rough paper
15" x 11" (38cm x 28cm)
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7. Remove
the Masking Fluid, Then Finish
Use
clean fingers or a commercial mask remover to carefully take
off the masking fluid. Make sure you remove it all.
Mix
a dark violet from Quinacridone Rose and Pthalo Blue. With a
no. 4 round, paint the dark shadows that fall beneath the island.
Alow this to dry.
Using
the same brush and mixtures of Hooker's Green, New Gamboge and
Cadmium Yellow, model the foliage of the island itself. Remember
that strong sunlight has a tendency to wash out color, so the
closer you get to the top edge of the mangroves, the lighter
the green should be. Leave a thin white edge at the very top
to indicate to the viewer that the strongest light hits at that
spot. The resulting value contrast will make your focal area
really pop out at the viewer.
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